Tuesday, July 17, 2007

八通關古道 - 爬山去 - 非理性

走到太累.. 累到暫時不想寫.. 因為一寫可能會寫的跟山路一樣長. (Actually, it's hard to beat that.)
先放個 entry.

ok, 開始.

我跑去爬山,我想我是瘋了。
平常愛走路,有前同事找我去爬山,去走玉山附近的「八通關古道」,本來就想爬比較遠的山,只在紐西蘭爬過一次 Tongariro Crossing,接下在台灣的時間也不多,機會難得,就答應了。越接近出發時,發覺要準備的東西一堆,I started question what I did this for. Why did I spend so much effort and money to put myself out of the comfort of home and to a place where I may be cold, wet and hungry.

So I came to conclusion that people who go hiking must be irrational in some ways. They must have decided to do it based on some passion or some kind of emotional motives. It's not logical to spend money on the equipments, take time off work, to put yourself in a physically uncomfortable situation.

Anyway, 就去了,第一天先到山腳下的民宿住,夜晚全員約20人圍著營火,一邊讓大塊的肉慢慢放著烤,一邊聽原本要陪我們上山的嚮導彈吉他。不會彈背叛,有彈新不了情,也唱了紅蜻蜓(那時Ferro就真的打給以前同事,我稱呼蜻蜓姐姐),嚮導也唱了他們原住民的抒情歌。

(The camera doesn't capture the atmosphere with the flash on. But it doesn't capture anything if the flash is off.)

晚上睡在三人的小隔間,雖然有人在外面走動還是聽的到,天也亮得很早,至少還是有好好睡了幾個小時。

第二天早上6點起床整理整理,啃了饅頭大家就上車前往登山口。大概 7點半開始從登山口開始走囉。前面的路段風景比較有變化,有瀑布,橋,懸崖等。



一路上大部分坡度都很緩,沒有那種一直走樓梯往上走到喘那種路段,就是往前走上緩緩的上坡。但是絕大部分都很平緩好走之外,就會忽然走到一個路段是斷崖,路看起來像是坍崩過的,只剩下很窄的面積能踏上去。這種路段,大家就要慢下來,一個一個通過,都要側著身,面對崖壁,手腳並用的橫行過去,但是手只能當支點,不能用力拉/壓,不然崖壁上的石頭可能會坍塌下來,人就跟著摔下去了。

(別看照片以為落差只有幾公尺,掉下去可是幾百、上千公尺)

這個路段讓我想到電影裡面主角在高樓外壁沿著牆壁側走的情景,差不多。
不過,高度可能比高樓還高,海拔超過一千公尺,有石頭從崖邊掉下去,我們過了五秒、七秒都還聽到石頭滾動撞到東西的聲音,實在很深,掉下去就無望了吧。

後來整個爬完的時候,有回想,覺得奇怪怎麼自己在這些危險路段時沒有感到可怕,因為有其他的年輕人通過那個路段後一副ㄘㄨㄚˋ到的樣子。我覺得,可能當時完全 focus 在要踏穩腳,扶好,穩穩得通過那個路段,沒空想掉下去那些可怕的事,所以反而沒在怕吧。

走了好幾個小時,大約中午走到路程一半的地方,大家在那休息吃午餐。午餐是有local饗導幫忙準備好,是兩個原住民壯漢背了大大的道具和食材,跟我走同樣的路上來,不過他們太厲害,超越我們,在我們到休息點之前就已經把東西架好準備好。我們一到就開始煮午餐了,就是簡單的麵加一些菜和料。吃完了旁邊就有山泉水可以洗一下餐具和手。

吃完午餐,有精神多了,繼續上路,但是我們這一行人走的很慢,常常停下來照相或休息,走了很久。而且途中還碰到下雨,他們有些去爬過三、四次的人說之前爬山從沒碰過下雨,嗯,我們這些第一次參加的是帶賽嗎?

實在走了很久,大家覺得晚上住宿的山屋怎麼還沒到,Ferro 就說是像 Shrek 的 Far Far Away. 那中文應該就「遠得要命山屋」吧。真正到山屋的時候已經快要下午6點了,而且我們還沒有去原本這天行程要去的「八通關草原」,去八通關草原再回來應該要2個小時左右。

We were exhausted. We sat on the bed and waited for the dinner, which was finally ready after 7pm. Shortly after dinner, we tried to go to sleep. It was only 8 o'clock. Nevertheless, some people say they wanted to extend our plan to go further up to the summit of 八通關山. If that's the case, we had to get up at 1:30am in the morning. It would add a 6 hour route to our plan.

It was so hard for me to sleep. I think I managed to sleep earlier in the night. However, I got sometime in the middle of the night and could not go back to sleep. The bed was hard and there were occasional noises in the room. There were about 15 people sleeping in that room. I found that I was easily affected when somebody snored or turned over. I tried various postures but it hurt somewhere on me nobody which way I rest. I felt terrible that I was so tired but I still couldn't sleep.

By the time we were about to get up, I did manage to sleep a bit more. But then it was time to get up and start another long day of walking. It was 4:30am. The guide decided that we wouldn't go for the extended route because we were too tired and walked too slowly. So he woke us up at 4:30am instead. It was a good call because it did take a long time for us to walk. We probably wouldn't finish the extended route on time.

It was dark in the morning, that's when the headlamp is useful. But I brought only a hand-held flashlight. It was less convenient to do things when only one hand was free. So I should have followed their advice and have brought a handlamp instead.

After breakfast, we headed out for the 八通關草原, which we did not reach the previous day.
There are supposed to be 法國菊 there. But we didn't see many. We saw a bit of historical artifact, though.


(海拔2827m的草原,一下晴天一下整個籠罩在霧裡)

Then we started heading down the mountain. We walked the same path we came up. So we had to deal with the cliffs again. People were eager to get out of the mountain. We went down faster than we went up. Still, it was a long way. We finally got to our bus at the bottom of the mountain around 3:30pm.

We then went for a hot spring spa. However, I think the best thing was we had a shower. Because we were short of time, we only went in the spa for a few minutes before coming out. It was more like shabu shabu. After that, we had a celebration dinner, then we headed back to Taipei with sore feet.

After all this, I think my previous idea has been validated. We must be irrational, if not somewhat crazy, to put ourselves through that. We walked for about 20 hours in 2 days. We walked for more than 30km. We might be crazy.

風景來說,其實上次 Tongariro Crossing 的風景比較特殊,有雪山,火山口,火山湖等等;這次則是青山綠水,草原瀑布,斷崖。

從懸崖邊回來,有兩個感覺,一個是,要珍惜生命;另一個是,沒在怕的啦。真是矛盾。

再加一句,當你沒有後路時,不要想失敗會怎樣,專心想辦法不要失敗。
(因為掉下去真的很難救吧...)

同事的感想則覺得更清楚自己要做什麼:「就把握有限的時間吧!做做自己能達到的」
「不是每個人都能一次走完八通關,外加上玉山,可是還是可以好好走到自己八通關,先讓視野開闊」
嗯,我們想說,該不會是缺乏睡眠的長期走路有這種療效?

喔,還有,要穿登山鞋,千萬不要穿底會滑的鞋子。我是穿平常的慢跑鞋,雖然沒滑倒、扭傷,但是覺得還是有穩一點鞋子比較好,尤其當你面對斷崖的時候...
而且,走過小溪流時很容易濕,登山鞋就不會。
後來某天要穿鞋子時才發現原來鞋子都是泥,全髒了。

奇怪的是,我居然是同事三人中腳最沒受傷的,可能是一個穿新鞋,一個沒穿厚襪子緣故吧,我穿了兩三層襪子在走。
後來小腿大概酸痛了兩天,下樓梯時特別痛,不過之後就 OK 了。

下次還會不會去爬山?再看吧。自己平常不會規劃這麼遠的行程,哪天聽到有朋友要往山中去,可能又會想說機會難得,又非理性的跟過去。

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